Recommended inverter
0W
continuous watts to plan for
0 W surge about 0 A at 12 V about 0 A at 24 V
For UK and EU motorhome and campervan trips. Tick the 230 V kit you might run at the same time, and see a recommended inverter size in continuous watts — how inverters are sold — plus surge watts and a rough battery current at 12 V and 24 V.
Recommended inverter
0W
continuous watts to plan for
0 W surge about 0 A at 12 V about 0 A at 24 V
Saved on this device
Change voltage, efficiency, or extra margin. The watts above update as you type.
How much of the battery power becomes 230 V. 88% is a typical everyday figure, not a lab rating. This changes the DC amp notes, not the AC watt size.
So you do not buy an inverter that is only just big enough. 20% is a common start. Set 0 to skip.
Tick only what you might run at the same time. Set watts from the label. Add start / surge if the maker lists a higher figure.
USB, 12 V sockets and many van TVs usually run from the leisure battery, not the inverter.
Continuous watts are what the inverter can run for a long time. Surge or start watts are a short extra burst some kit needs when it first switches on. Shop with the big continuous figure, then check the surge figure covers your highest start.
Usually yes for induction hobs, microwaves, laptop chargers, TVs and most modern electronics. Modified sine can run a simple kettle or heater, but it often makes electronics buzz, run hot, or refuse to start. This page is not a product list — if in doubt, choose pure sine.
The 230 V watt size stays the same. Voltage changes the current on the battery side. The same load is about half the amps at 24 V, so cables and connections have an easier job. Match the inverter to the leisure-system voltage you actually have.
They draw a lot of watts for a short time. A 1,200 W kettle plus a little extra margin is already a 1,500 W class inverter. Add a 1,600 W hob and you are into 3,000 W territory if you might run them together. Tick only what you will run at the same time.
Usually not. USB, 12 V sockets and many van TVs run from the leisure battery, not the inverter. Put them on Daily Power as everyday 12 V use. Only add them here if you really plug that kit into a 230 V socket.
Yes. Many van inverters sip a few watts to tens of watts while they sit on. That idle drain is small compared with a kettle, but it adds up overnight. Switch the inverter off when you do not need 230 V, or use a model with a low idle figure.
No. The inverter takes power from the leisure battery. Solar charges that battery during the day. Size the inverter for the 230 V kit, size the battery for how long you want to last, and size solar to put energy back. They are three different jobs.
No. Inverter size is watts — how hard you can pull right now. Battery size is amp-hours — how long the energy lasts. A small battery can still feed a large inverter for a few minutes, then go flat. Use this page for the inverter, and Battery for the Ah size to buy.
Inverters waste some power as heat. At 88% efficiency, a 1,200 W kettle needs about 1,364 W from the battery. That is what drives the DC amp figures. 88% is a typical everyday number, not a lab rating. A poorer inverter or a heavy load can be worse.
Treat it as a planning size, then round up to an inverter you can actually buy — often 1,000 W, 1,500 W, 2,000 W or 3,000 W. The default extra margin is there so you do not buy a unit that is only just big enough. Check surge as well as continuous watts.
No. This is a planning estimate only. Cables, fuses, ventilation and battery limits matter, and they are not calculated here. A large inverter at 12 V can draw well over 100 A. Use a qualified installer for safety-critical work and follow the maker’s instructions.
Short reads on Motorhome Tools. They do not change the numbers on this calculator.